#1 The CC Logo
The right C should overlap on top, and left C should overlap on the bottom. If it’s the other way around, it’s a fake. The width of the C should also match the width of the horizontal gap between the two Cs. If the bag you are looking at has a CC on the inside, it should feel soft and not as if there is a card board inside.
#2 Turn Style Lock
The lock on the authentic bag is much flatter in shape and wider in font type whereas the lock on the fake bag is thinner in font type and bulky, rounder in shape.
The double C lock is the most recognisable designs on the 2.55. This iconic lock was designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. The lock designed by Chanel herself is very different from Karl Lagerfeld’s lock as it is rectangular in shape and has no Chanel logo stamping. The double C lock is also referred to as the mademoiselle lock as Chanel never married. (Source: Lollipuff.com)
#3 Hardware
Screws: This is another quick and powerful tool for detecting counterfeit Chanel. The screw test. Above are three types of screws you might find on a Chanel item. B and C are ok, but A (Philips head) is not. Chanel never uses Philips head screws to fasten metal hardware. This example is of a Philips head screw and is generally not be found on a Chanel handbag. This might be something that can be seen in lower class counterfeits whereas a higher quality Chanel fake might still be able to have this detail correct. (Image: authenticationfiles.com)
Chanel Zippers: Chanel has utilized several different zipper manufactures throughout the years, and each specific zipper brand will generally map to a specific time frame, model or style. The zipper manufacturers utilized have always been high quailty producers, and as such, the zipper mechansims found on authentic Chanel should always be high quality. Below are Lampo zippers which Chanel uses however they also use other zipper brands like YKK. Scroll below to learn more thanks to Vintage Heirloom‘s comprehensive guide:
#4 Quilting
Always check if the quilt stitching on flap and pocket match the body. On an authentic Chanel, the quilt stitching should line up neatly on the front flap and back pocket. On the back pocket, it is not one continuous stitch that runs from the purse onto the pocket. The pocket and purse are two distinct pieces that were stitched separately, and joined via a stitch along the outside perimeter of the pocket. If you see a bag with quilting that does not line up between flap and body as well as pocket and back, beware, think twice. However, we’ve also seen top grade fakes that manage to get the quilting to line up. Our advice is to buy directly from the Chanel boutique or go with reputable department stores or reputable consignment stores. (Source: extrapetite.com)
#5 Stitching
The photo of the left shows a fake Chanel and the right photo shows an authentic Chanel. A low stitch count causes the quilted effect to be puffy whereas the authentic Chanel which has a high stitch count doesn’t end up puffy. Notice how the fake bag on left has thinner ‘diamond’ quilt stitching? The ones on real Chanel are much squarer. The turn lock on the fake bag is also as big as the leather bit that secures the bag and the leather around the turn lock also puffs up. On the authentic bag on the right, the turn lock has good spacing around it and leather around it does not puff up.
#6 Lining
#7 Chanel Stamping
Check the colour of the stamping in the bag. If the hardware is Silver, the stamping in the bag should also be silver. If the hardware is gold, the stamping should also be in gold. An authentic Chanel bag never has mismatched hardware and stamping. (Source: thehautecookie.com)
#8 Chain Straps
Check the chain and see if the part where the chain breaks is clearly visible. In authentic Chanel bags with chain leather straps, that part where the chain breaks should be well hidden. In a lot of bags made before 2008 there is no stitching in the leather interwoven in the chain at all. If there is stitching on the interwoven leather in the chains of the bags you see now, it will only be on one side like above. By the way, Coco Chanel came from an orphanage, and her caretakers wore chains around their waists which held their keys. That is the meaning behind the chain. In the 80s when Karl Lagerfeld took over, he added a leather strap interwoven in between the chains. (Source: thehautecookie.com)
#9 Authenticity Card
The “card system” was introduced the same time as the serial sticker. There should be absolutely no rainbowy “hologram” type effect. It is made out of plastic and feels just like a credit card just like PRADA cards. As you see above, the serial number on the bag, and the number on the authenticity card, always match. It always comes with a small 2×2 creme envelop with info on the bag. Now, if a bag doesn’t come with a card, don’t dismiss it as fake as the previous owner could have genuinely lost it. But do look out for other signs of authenticity.
#10 Serial Sticker
Serial stickers were first introduced in 1984 and continue to be used today. As mentioned, numbers on serial stickers should match numbers on the authenticity card. Bags made before this time, don’t have stickers.
6 digit codes-bag was made some time between 1984 and 1986.
7 digit codes- handbag was made between 1986 and 2004.
8 digit codes have been used since 2005 until TODAY.
8 digits is the max amount of digits you should see on a Serial Number.
Anything over 8 digits is not authentic.
Serial No. and Year Manufactured | Style of Numbers | Style of Serial Number Sticker | Picture of Serial Number Sticker |
14XXXXXXYear: 2011 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Eight digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
13XXXXXXYear:2009 to 2010 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Eight digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
12XXXXXXYear:2008 to 2009 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Eight digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
11XXXXXXYear:2006 to 2008 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Eight digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
10XXXXXXYear:2005 to 2006 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Eight digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
9XXXXXXYear:2004 to 2005 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
8XXXXXXYear:2003 to 2004 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
7XXXXXXYear:2002 to 2003 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
6XXXXXXYear:2000 to 2002 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
5XXXXXXYear:1997 to 1999 | 0’s have strikethroughs up to 51XXXXX. 0’s have no strikethroughs from 52XXXXX to 56XXXXX. 0’s have strikethroughs from 57XXXXX on. 1’s have small serifs (feet) from 57XXXXX on. |
Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos from 57XXXXX on.”X” cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. “CHANEL” appears on rightright side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker. | ![]() |
4XXXXXXYear:1996 to 1997 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s are sans-serifs (no feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos. Opaque film covers sticker. | ![]() |
3XXXXXXYear:1994 to 1996 | 0’s have strikethroughs. 1’s are sans-serifs (no feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos. Opaque film covers sticker. | ![]() |
2XXXXXXYear:1991 to 1994 | 0’s have no strikethroughs up to 27XXXXXX. 1’s have serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos. Opaque film covers sticker. | ![]() |
1XXXXXXYear:1989 to 1991 | 0’s have no strikethroughs. 1’s have serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos and left-sided cutout. Opaque film covers sticker. | ![]() |
0XXXXXXYear:1986 to 1988 | 0’s have no strikethroughs. 1’s have serifs (feet). | Seven digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos and left-sided cutout. Opaque film covers sticker. Note that early serial numbers (starting with a 1 or 2) did not have a leading “0”. Therefore, these were six-digit serial numbers. Also, the sticker was larger than the stickers produced later in the series. |
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